Meet…Tomasz Donocik

Author: Yale | Posted: June 4th, 2009 | Filed under: Designers | | 1 Comment »

I’m really feeling Tomasz Donocik’s work these days. Credited with changing the way mens jewelry is both worn and perceived – Vienna born Donocik moved to London to study at Central Saint Martins and naturally, specialized in jewelry design. His creations are based on various themes – all of which are driven from architectural references and literary notions. Always pushing the boundaries – and never disappointing along the way – for a peek into Donocik’s professional life – take a read (and look) below. I already have my Tomasz Donocik wish-list….

Yale: You are both an artist and a designer who creates collections based on central themes. What themes have played a prominent role in your latest jewelry creations?
Tomasz Donocik: The spirit of my debut collection Russian Aristocrat (2006) was anchored in the personality of Pechorin, the protagonist of Lementov’s novel A Hero of Our Time, an aloof character who has continued an ambassadorial role in my work.
When he first started to exert his influence, I began with translating his demeanour into a collection of distinctive pieces that fused traditional techniques with contemporary design. There was an almost dilettantish feeling of Fin de Siecle excess.
The world has changed a great deal since then. I imagine him now being a bit more grounded. But although he may have lost a lot of his money, he’s lost none of his breeding. The pieces I’ve designed have moved from being nighttime apparel to also
being part of his daily wardrobe. For another collection, “Rising Star”, my references have remained in the region, but have become a bit more hard-edged. The military uniforms of the Soviet era have provided inspiration, as has the platonic architecture of post-Soviet Russia.
At times I’ve used the direct iconography of the star – such as in Star Ring and Star Bracelet – whilst elsewhere this departure point creates a more angular silhouette. Here I also unveil Chesterfield Belt, which has been developed from the signature piece, Chesterfield Bangle, in the Russian Aristocrat collection.

What is your stance on the way men wear jewelry in 2009?
I believe that men are becoming more and more seduced my jewellery and start looking at it as an essential part of their wardrobe. This year, Garrrard will be coming out with a new men’s collection. This is an indication that major brands have indentified an increasing demand of products in this jewellery sector.

Where would you like to see the masculine approach to jewelry headed?

As previously mentioned, men’s jewellery is flourishing. I would like it to become even more prominent and establish itself in the luxury sector. With the increase in men’s cosmetics and other men’s luxury products, it is on its rise.

You are credited with playing with various materials in your collections. What current materials are you in the midst of utilizing?

In my lastest “Rising Star” collection, I have reintroduced bronze into my fine precious jewellery. This is an ongoing process and I shall be coming out with more designs using this great material. Currently I am using my favourite materials such as leather and precious stones.

What is your proudest accomplishment to date?
I think when it comes to my jewellery it will be the Chesterfield Hunters Bangle. It has gotten me a lot of interest and till today seems like a unique piece.
When it comes to designing, I think being involved in designing the Stephen Webster Burning Rocks collection for De Beers and this year designing the men’s collection for Garrard (coming out soon), are my proudest accomplishments.

What are you currently working on?
Currently I am working on numerous projects. One of them being a high fine jewellery collection that will consist of grand cocktail rings and matching pendants. It will be slightly macabre but seductive at the same time. I am using large and impressive stones that will be the center of the collection. As always there is a theme to it but its too early to discuss this in further details.
I am also coming out with a ladies jewellery collection this September. This will mainly consist of gold and diamond pieces retailing between £200-£600. I am very excited about this range since it is something very accessible and commercial and therefore a total contrast to my high end jewellery collections. It has been partly influenced by traditional Japanese paints, culture and the grittier western London scene.